Tonquin Valley: The Surprise Caribou Encounter
September 15 - 18, 2021
Coming off the high of completing the Skyline in perfect conditions, we set up camp at good ol’ Whistlers Campground to clean ourselves and re-pack in anticipation for tomorrow’s new adventure. Tonquin Valley is the second-most popular backcountry destination in Jasper National Park. The signature Ramparts tracing the continental divide towers over the pristine Amethyst Lakes marshland, home to the largest caribou herd of the last two remaining herds in Jasper.
While the highlights can be seen on a one night in-and-out route, we took our time to soak in the valley with a 4 day, 3 night itinerary over 45km.
Day 1: Astoria Trailhead to Surprise Point (16.8km)
Day 2: Surprise Point to Amethyst (5.6km)
Map from Parks Canada
Before going to bed, we set up two tents as our friends Ryan and Willow were driving up from Calgary after work and would arrive in the dark. This worked out well as they were borrowing my spare Big Agnes Frying Pan SL2 tent which hadn’t seen any action in years.
Whistlers Campground is a favorite for the constant elk activity as they munch on the grass growing around spaces recently cleared for campsites. September is rutting season, when the males compete for the females by the strength of their antlers. Even in a car, they can and will charge at you if you pause too long for photos. Fucking terrifying beasts.
Day 1: Astoria Trailhead to Surprise Point (16.8km)
Selfishly, my driving force for booking 2 sites at Tonquin Valley was to simplify the transportation logistics. By having another group, we could drop off one car at Portal and take the other car to Astoria where we began the hike. Since these two trailheads are on different access roads, we would have likely needed to hitchhike 3 separate times, with the Portal section receiving almost no traffic outside of ski season.
Within only a few steps, we come upon a beautiful view of Cavell Lake and Mt Edith Cavell. I can’t believe I’ve never stopped here before.
This is Willow’s very first backpacking trip and Ryan’s second. We thank them for trusting us to be their guides. Many of the photos in this blog post are taken by them and Jimmy!
We cruised down the wide, well-maintained trail towards Astoria campground, keeping an eye out for the split in the trail that would take us towards Surprise Point via Ermite Valley. There are two ways to get to Surprise Point, but according to the map, the path towards Ermite Valley had a lot less elevation change (who wants to pass a campsite called “Switchback” if you don’t have to) and exposes more views towards glaciers overhanging Chrome Lake. No-brainer, right?
Astoria Campground has a gorgeous view of the valley below. We take a break on the picnic benches and layer up as the overhanging snow finally begins to pummel down.
The trail split was easy to spot as we needed to cross the fast-flowing glacier river we had been following. From here on this trail would be hikers-only, as the main trail can also accommodate horses. From previous backpacking experiences, horse trails are generally more unpleasant, muddy and stinky.
In hindsight the elevation and horse poop may have been more manageable than this onslaught of mud holes and precarious water crossings. At least we notified the group that waterproof boots were a MUST while we had cell service on the Skyline.
This continues for 6km and our pace has completely dropped off. Normally it’s not a huge deal if you fall into some water, but carrying a heavy backpack means you’ve got cargo that cannot get wet like sleeping bags. Your boots won’t dry if the daily high is only slightly above zero for 4 days with even more snow in the forecast. And to top it off, you’re not very nimble or balanced when swinging 20+ lbs around on your shoulders.
Seriously don’t take bridges for granted.
After numerous hours we stop for a break at this quaint little boulder field with reflective ponds that were starting to ice over for the winter. Gotta have some fun even while you’re exhausted! The mood of a group is the real energy booster.
At long last we stumble out of the bushes to a familiar rushing river. As we cross the bridge one last time, the Ermite Valley wondrously emerges.
Chrome Lake appears to be ahead of us, which was a big relief as we could finally pinpoint how far we’d come on the map and look back at the day’s progress. Clouds of snow wrapped around all of mountains, fading in and out with the late afternoon sun.
Time for more photos! While Jimmy and I are distracted hunting for the best angles, Ryan calls to us that he sees tents ahead! There’s no way I think, we’re still at least 2km away need to head uphill. There’s no campsite along this lake, though from its stunning vantage there really should be.
However I know better than to question Ryan’s eagle eyes that once spotted a humpback whale ~20km inward of a shallow inlet in Newfoundland. I hoped that the trail would follow the lake more closely, but unfortunately we turn the other way before getting any closer. If we had more time and energy, I would have suggested to stay a bit longer.
Wait there really is a camp! Their tent is massive and has a smokestack jutting out. There’s even more tiny tents randomly planted in the bushes, like actually just on top of the bushes.
We speak to a guy and learn that they were hired by Parks Canada to do trail maintenance on the section we had just completed. The heavy, fancy suite and delicious-smelling food was all air lifted in, so they didn’t have to haul any of it on their backs. I am bursting with envy and relief that the next group won’t have to suffer like we did.
Towards this glacier dripping down the rock wall is the Wates-Gibson hut run by the Alpine Club of Canada. From this junction it was only 1km away, while our campsite was another 1.7km. If I were to do this hike again, I would definitely snag a booking there.
Where we were going, snow had blanketed the forest floor, dampening all sounds but the sluggish thump of our tired, heavy bootsteps. The higher we climbed the more snow filled the path, stubbornly refusing to become one with the earth. Knowing we were so close, I quicken the pace and leave my group behind, rapidly reaching Surprise Point campground.
Surprise! The tent pads are even further from this sign. Ugh…. I’m frustrated and hungry and so tired of carrying this backpack around. I make haste towards the first campsite where I dump my backpack and continue exploring the campground in hopes of having definitively selected the best site before my friends arrive.
Jimmy, Ryan and Willow continue hiking at a more reasonable pace, embracing the change in seasons.
With the help of Ryan’s eagle eyes, they spot the herd of caribou! There’s the females grazing and a huge male caribou sizing up his lady friends. Jade’s gonna be so jealous she ran off and missed this!
Oh there he goes running towards the direction of the campground. Maybe Jade will get lucky after all!
Re-energized, the group orients themselves back towards their goal of reaching the campground. Upon finding the first campsite, they spot Jade’s backpack on the ground and her footprints leading away… Shit!!!
With the weight literally lifted off my back, I had wandered past all the campsites which were completely deserted, not finding any better than the rest. My curiosity leads me to a grand clearing at the southernmost edge of Amethyst Lakes. After making it halfway to the lake, I pause to admire the darkening Ramparts for a few moments before turning around, resolving to save this view for tomorrow morning.
I notice a few interesting footprints in the fresh snow that I didn’t think were there before. Paying no mind, I hurry towards my backpack and find my crew there waiting for me as expected.
Unexpectedly, they’re completely freaking out. I learn about their run-in with the caribou herd and how the alpha male ran my way and they thought I got gored to death because I wasn’t carrying any form of defense. It might be a good time to mention that I don’t carry bear spray anyways, so at best the backpack could only act as a blunt, down-filled shield.
Now I’m definitely jealous. Undeterred, I pick my camera and we collectively shuffle towards the mystery footprints I passed. Not even two steps in, the forest shakes with a low, angry rumble. I will remember that earth-deep sound reverberating in my chest for the rest of my life.
Boo! 🦌
Everyone whips out their bear spray, heads frantically spinning to locate where he’s been hiding, watching and waiting for us to make a move.
I spot him through my camera lens, munching away at the crisp snowy foliage. Once he realizes I’ve got this long black machine pointed at him, he picks up his bulky, imposing headpiece and points it straight at me too.
He’s going to charge us. We’re standing between him and the female caribous. It dawns on me that if I had not paused for those few moments back at Amethyst Lake and came back immediately, we would have actually crossed paths. I might not have gotten the pictures to prove it but at least there would be scars (in the best case scenario).
Having snapped a few acceptable shots, we collectively (belatedly) agree to back away slowly until his earth-rumbling grunts tapered off.
We set up camp right where we stood, tents together for extra protection. We only moved in pairs, with bear spray, to the cooking and toilet areas throughout the night.
Finally filling up our tummies, we laugh about our crazy encounter — so that’s why this place is called Surprise Point!
Day 2: Surprise Point to Amethyst (5.6km)
Waking up was rough after that unexpectedly grueling first day. It was the coldest night so far, with even more snow blanketing our empty campground.
Last night we discovered that one of the tent poles on our trusty MSR Hubba Hubba tent had snapped without warning. Through the power of sheer luck and friendship, a tent splint fell out of the Big Agnes tent Ryan and Willow were borrowing while we were desperately fumbling to invent a crutch using tape. That’s going straight into the emergency kit next time!
Feeling brave after a warm breakfast, we sneak past the angry caribou’s last known location to check out the lake view together.
The frosty north wind funneled down Tonquin Valley, licking up waves on the sparse rocky shore of Amethyst Lakes. Today is a flat 5.6km walk from the south end of the lake to the main campground in the middle. We have plenty of time but with no respite from the wind, we agree to get moving after a few minutes of frozen hands and noses.
This large bridge crossing at the outlet of Amethyst Lakes was surprisingly more beautiful than Surprise Point.
We diligently followed the winding trail through the marsh. The cold was actually a blessing as the ground remained relatively firm. I could understand why the path seemed to meander about, carefully crafted around soggy dips in the delicate mountain marshland.
Bits of blue sky occasionally broke free allowing the sun to dissolve the snow, revealing shrubs that had only begun to turn golden.
This section of marsh wetland is notorious in the spring and summer as a mosquito breeding ground. This is the #1 reason I chose to book Tonquin Valley in mid-September, late enough to guarantee full mosquito annihilation even in a warmer-than-average summer. We learned this lesson the hard way on our second-ever Rocky Mountain backcountry trip to Mt. Assiniboine last year.
With COVID-19 still peaking in 2021, tourism operators like Tonquin Valley Adventures who offer guided horseback tours stood empty. In 2022, Parks Canada officially bought out their business along with neighboring Tonquin Valley Backcountry Lodge on the north end of the lake in hopes of protecting the dwindling caribou population.
Right on cue, we spot a few younger members of the herd grazing undisturbed past the horse stables.
Amethyst Lakes campground was a few steps away. As the most coveted campground situated directly in front of the Ramparts, it’s effectively always fully booked.
But we were the lone guests once again. Last minute cancellations are very common in the Rocky Mountains when the forecast is unfavorable.
At least this means I can poop in peace :)
After setting up camp and replenishing our bellies, Ryan and Willow decide to rest while Jimmy and I ventured towards the lake. A nap sounded lovely but daylight is fleeting and I was too paranoid about missing any good shots.
With how rocky the shoreline was on the south side, I was not expecting to find this calm, fine sandy beach. It’s a shame that it was too cold for swimming. If we were going to continue hiking today I could possibly convince my body to endure it, but there’s no way I could warm up before bed now that we’re already settled in.
We find a wide rock to sit on and pass the time, surrounded by nature’s glory. I took way too many photos of this mountain and lake from essentially the same angle. Before long our friends joined us, cooking equipment in tow, as the sun dipped behind the jagged peaks marking the end of our short and sweet second day.
Day 3: Amethyst to Portal (14.2km)
Stepping out of the protection of the trees that hugged our campground, I abandoned all desire for a morning lake dip. Misty clouds swirled and dived over the mountains threatening to close in at any time.
We delicately navigated the ice-crusted muddy shoreline along Amethyst Lakes to our first rest stop at Maccarib campground. The trail takes a sharp turn into a new valley with an indiscernible incline.
The mountains appear to spread aside making way for the meandering creek. We crossed numerous little bridges as water trickled in from both sides of the valley.
Occasionally the water spilled right onto the trail, forcing us to carefully hop over the bushes.
Although it had been snowing this whole time since leaving Maccarib campground, the snowfall gradually picked up the closer we got to Maccarib Pass, the highest point on the Tonquin Valley trail. I clutched my camera against my jacket and tried my best to keep the lens dry.
Temperatures were dropping steadily so we put on all our layers despite the uphill grind. The ground was slick from snow and mud pressed under our feet into an icy slush. Everything blended together as the mountains disappeared. It wasn’t clear whether we had stumbled into the cloud layer or the storm had finally settled in.
Made it to the top of Maccarib Pass!
Apparently this side of Tonquin Valley is more beautiful than coming in from Astoria trailhead, so it was a shame that most of the view was obscured.
On the bright side, no views and downhill means we breezed down towards Portal Creek. This side of the valley was noticeably warmer and wetter, with towering spruce trees and no snow accumulation. We were a bit too fast at times and nearly slipped in the thick mud. There were many horse hoof prints but I wish I was knowledgeable enough to identify other animals recently on the trail.
Setting up camp in the rain with wet gear is never fun. Portal campground wasn’t all that nice or positioned near a point of interest that could be explored. Being reasonably close to the exit, we were even tempted to continue all the way out. However, spontaneously adding another 9km on top of a 14km day and then still having to set up camp in Jasper would probably overwhelm at least one person’s mental or physical limits. Better to quit while we’re ahead and in a good mood.
Day 4: Portal to Portal Trailhead (8.7km)
The final day is upon us! The skies are smiling and even the mud doesn’t slow us down.
Jimmy’s hair sure looks greasy after 4 days.
My pants and boots need a serious cleaning too.
Time to say goodbye to Portal Creek and Maccarib Pass. It’s amazing how the snow still remained contained to the other side.
Even though we’re actually descending, the trail appears to rise higher and higher above Portal Creek, crossing distinct rockfalls of striking orange and black. This side of the trail appears to carry some avalanche risk. In 2022, Parks Canada decided to closed Tonquin Valley to all winter recreation to protect vulnerable caribou habitat. They allegedly have hundreds of trail camera photos proving that wolves, the caribou’s main predator, use ski and snowmobile set tracks which pack down the snow creating “highways” to access Tonquin Valley.
We were thrilled to finally make it out and feeling insanely lucky (in hindsight) to have an unforgettable encounter with Tonquin Valley’s caribous on day one. Hiking is always better with friends— thanks Ryan and Willow for the beautiful memories!
